Solar Water Heater Basics
Solar water heaters are made up of collectors; storage tanks;
and, depending on the system, electric pumps.
There are basically three types of collectors: flatplate, evacuated-tube,
and concentrating. A flatplate collector, the most common type,
is an insulated, weatherproofed box containing a dark absorber plate
under one or more transparent or translucent covers.
Evacuated-tube collectors are made up of rows of parallel, transparent
glass tubes. Each tube consists of a glass outer tube and an inner
tube, or absorber, covered with a selective coating that absorbs
solar energy well, but inhibits radiative heat loss. The air is
withdrawn (evacuated) from the space between the tubes to form a
vacuum, which eliminates conductive and convective heat loss.
Concentrating collectors for residential applications are usually
parabolic troughs that use mirrored surfaces to concentrate the
sun's energy on an absorber tube (called a receiver) containing
a heat-transfer fluid.
Most commercially available solar water heaters require a well-insulated
storage tank. Many systems use converted conventional electric or
gas water heater tanks or the solar storage tank is plumbed in series
with the conventional water heater. In this arrangement, the solar
water heater preheats water before it enters the conventional water
heater.
Some solar water heaters use pumps to recirculate warm water from
storage tanks through collectors and exposed piping. This is done
to protect the pipes from freezing when outside temperatures drop
to freezing or below.
Types of Solar Water Heaters
Solar water heaters can be either active or passive. An active
system uses an electric pump to circulate the heat-transfer fluid;
a passive system has no pump. The amount of hot water a solar water
heater produces depends on the type and size of the system, the
amount of sun available at the site, proper installation, and the
tilt angle and orientation of the collectors.
Solar water heaters are also characterized as open loop (also called
"direct") or closed loop (also called "indirect").
An open-loop system circulates household (potable) water through
the collector. A closed-loop system uses a heat-transfer fluid (water
or diluted antifreeze, for example) to collect heat and a heat exchanger
to transfer the heat to potable water. An indirect or direct system
can be used for heating swimming pools and spas. Lower cost unglazed
(no glass cover) collectors are available for this purpose.
Active Systems
Active systems use electric pumps, valves, and controllers to
circulate water or other heat-transfer fluids through the collectors.
They are usually more expensive than passive systems but are also
more efficient. Active systems are usually easier to retrofit than
passive systems because their storage tanks do not need to be installed
above or close to the collectors. However, because active systems
use electricity, they will not function in a power outage. Active
systems range in price from about $2,000 to $4,000 installed.
Open-Loop Active Systems
Open-loop active systems use pumps to circulate potable water
through the collectors. This design is efficient and lowers operating
costs but is not appropriate if your water is hard or acidic, because
scale and corrosion quickly disable the system.
These open-loop systems are popular in nonfreezing climates such
as Hawaii. They should never be installed in climates that experience
freezing temperatures for sustained periods. You can install them
in mild but occasionally freezing climates, but you must consider
freeze protection.
Recirculation systems are a specific type of open-loop system that
provides freeze protection. They use the system pump to circulate
warm water from storage tanks through collectors and exposed piping
when temperatures approach freezing. Consider recirculation systems
only where mild freezes occur once or twice a year at most. Activating
the freeze protection more frequently wastes electricity and stored
heat.
Of course, if the power goes out, the pump will not work and the
system will freeze. To guard against this, a freeze valve can be
installed to provide additional protection in the event the pump
doesn't"t operate. In freezing weather, the valve dribbles
warmer water through the collector to prevent freezing.
Closed-Loop Active Systems
These systems pump heat-transfer fluids (usually tap water or
a glycol-water antifreeze mixture) through collectors. Heat exchangers
transfer the heat from the fluid to the potable water stored in
the tanks.
Double-walled heat exchangers prevent contamination of potable
water. Some codes require double walls when the heat-transfer fluid
is anything other than potable water.
Closed-loop glycol systems are popular in areas subject to extended
freezing temperatures because they offer good freeze protection.
However, glycol antifreeze systems are a bit more expensive to buy
and install, and the glycol must be checked each year and changed
every 3 to 10 years, depending on glycol quality and system temperatures.
Drainback systems use water as the heat-transfer fluid in the collector
loop. A pump circulates the water through the collectors. The water
drains by gravity to the storage tank and heat exchanger; there
are no valves to fail. When the pumps are off, the collectors are
empty, which assures freeze protection and also allows the system
to turn off if the water in the storage tank becomes too hot.
Solar Water Heating & Space Heating, Figure
2
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| Drainback hot water system. |
Pumps in Active Systems
The pumps in solar water heaters have low power
requirements, and some companies now include direct current (DC)
pumps powered by small solar-electric (photovoltaic, or PV) panels.
PV panels convert sunlight into DC electricity. Such systems cost
nothing to operate and continue to function during power outages.
Passive
Systems
Passive systems move potable water or a heat-transfer fluid through
the system without pumps. Passive systems have no electric components
to break. This makes them generally more reliable, easier to maintain,
and possibly longer lasting than active systems.
Passive systems can be less expensive than active systems, but
they can also be less efficient. Installed costs for passive systems
range from about $1,000 to $3,000, depending on whether it is a
simple batch heater or a sophisticated thermosiphon system.
Batch Heaters
Batch heaters (also known as "bread box" or integral
collector storage systems) are simple passive systems consisting
of one or more storage tanks placed in an insulated box that has
a glazed side facing the sun. Batch heaters are inexpensive and
have few components, in other words, less maintenance and fewer
failures. A batch heater is mounted on the ground or on the roof
(make sure your roof structure is strong enough to support it).
Some batch heaters use selective surfaces on the tank(s). These
surfaces absorb sun well but inhibit radiative loss.
In climates where freezing occurs, batch heaters must either be
protected from freezing or drained for the winter. In well-designed
systems, the most vulnerable components for freezing are the pipes
that lead to the solar water heater, if they are located in uninsulated
areas. If these pipes are well insulated, the warmth from the tank
will prevent freezing. Certified systems clearly state the temperature
level that can cause damage. In addition, you can install heat tape
(electrical plug-in tape to wrap around the pipes to keep them from
freezing), insulate exposed pipes, or both. Remember, heat tape
requires electricity, so the combination of freezing weather and
a power outage can lead to burst pipes. If you live in an area where
freezing is infrequent, you can use plastic pipe that does not crack
or burst when it freezes. Keep in mind, though, that some of these
pipes cannot withstand unlimited freeze/thaw cycles without breaking.
Thermosiphon Systems
A thermosiphon system relies on warm water rising, a phenomenon
known as natural convection, to circulate water through the collectors
and to the tank. In this type of installation, the tank must be
above the collector. As water in the collector heats, it becomes
lighter and rises naturally into the tank above. Meanwhile, cooler
water in the tank flows down pipes to the bottom of the collector,
causing circulation throughout the system. The storage tank is attached
to the top of the collector so that thermosiphoning can occur. These
systems are reliable and relatively inexpensive but require careful
planning in new construction because the water tanks are heavy.
They can be freeze-proofed by circulating an antifreeze solution
through a heat exchanger in a closed loop to heat the potable water.
Sizing Your System
Sizing a solar water heater involves determining the total collector
area and the storage volume required to provide 100 percent of your
household's hot water during the summer. Solar-equipment experts
use worksheets or special computer programs to determine what size
system is needed.
Solar storage tanks are usually 50-, 60-, 80-, or 120-gallon capacity.
A small (50 to 60 gallon) system is sufficient for 1 to 3 people,
a medium (80-gallon) system is adequate for a 3- or 4-person household,
and a large (120-gallon) system is appropriate for 4 to 6 people.
Consult with a solar dealer to size equipment for commercial use.
Here is a rule of thumb for sizing collectors for households in
Central Texas: allow about 20 square feet of collector area for
each of the first two family members and 8 square feet for each
additional family member.
A ratio of at least 2.0 gallons of storage capacity to 1 square
foot of collector area prevents the system from overheating when
the demand for hot water is low in Central Texas. For example, a
family of four in Central Texas would need 56 square feet of collector
area and a 112-gallon storage tank. (This assumes 20 square feet
of collector area for the first person, 20 for the second person,
8 each for the third and the fourth person. (56 square feet, multiplied
by 2 gallons of storage capacity equals 112 gallons of storage.)
Because you might not be able to find a 112-gallon tank, you may
want to get a 120-gallon tank to be sure to meet your hot water
needs.
Solar Space Heating
The tilt of space heating solar collectors is the latitude plus
15 degrees (a total of 45 degrees in Austin). The purpose of the
tilt is to align the collectors perpendicular to the sun's rays
in the heating season when the optimal performance is needed. The
number of collectors used in a space heating application is based
on the heat load of the house:
Average heat load ˜ collector rated heat output = number of
collectors needed.
Basing the size of the collectors only on the average heat load
of the building during the heating season will not provide enough
heat during the colder part of the heating season. Since the heat
load of the building is dependent upon the extent of its energy
conserving features, the greater the energy efficiency of the building,
the smaller the system can be.
The space heating system, like the domestic water heating system,
must be backed up by an auxiliary heating system. It is not practical
to size a solar system to provide all of a home's heat requirement
under the worst conditions because the system would become too large
and too costly. The solar loop pump is controlled in much the same
way as the water heating solar system. When solar heat is available
to heat the storage water, the pump comes on.
The hot water storage system should be sized to approximately 2.5
gallons of storage for each square foot of collector area. The fluid
that is heated and stored (typically water) can be distributed into
the house in one of the methods discussed below.
Solar Water Heating & Space Heating,
Figure 3
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| Solar space heating system. |
Air distribution system
Whenever the thermostat calls for heat, the heated water in the
storage tank is pumped into a coil located in the return air duct.
Most solar water heating systems include an auxiliary heater. These
heaters add heat to the solar storage tank to maintain a minimum
operating temperature in the storage tank at all times.
Hydronic system with radiators
The heated water is circulated in series with a boiler into radiators
located in the living spaces. Modern baseboard radiators operate
effectively at 140 degrees. Using the solar system's heated water
as the source of water for the boiler will reduce the boiler's energy
use.
Radiant floor hydronic systems
The solar heated water is pumped through distribution
piping located in the floor of the building. Lower temperatures
are used in this type of system-- the slab is not heated above 80
degrees in most cases. The auxiliary heat can be connected in series
with the solar system's heated output water or it can be connected
to the solar tank to provide a minimum temperature.
In the Austin area, most buildings use an air distribution system
that can provide air conditioning as well as heating. The radiant
hydronic systems are much less common but are considered highly
effective in terms of comfort, efficiency, and health impacts (no
blowing air to stir up dust). The air distribution method described
above can work quite well with a conventional gas water heater as
a backup. (See the Water
Heating.)
Another form of solar space heating uses air collectors, but this
is more practical in climates with longer and colder winters than
Austin's. The investment in storage systems for air collectors is
substantial in time, money, and materials. In Central Texas, the
use of air collectors to put heat directly into the house can be
readily achieved with properly oriented windows. Since daytime temperatures
in the winter can be relatively high, the additional hot air from
an air collector can overheat a home that does not have extra thermal
mass to absorb the heat.
Be a Smart Consumer
Take the same care in choosing a solar water heater that you would
in the purchase of any major appliance. Your best protection is
to consider only certified and labeled systems. One such label is
put on by the Solar Rating & Certification Corporation (SRCC),
a nonprofit, independent third-party organization formed by the
solar industry, state energy officials, and consumer advocates to
certify and rate solar water heaters.
A national standard (OG-300) addresses a variety of concerns, including
safety and health, durability and reliability, installation, performance,
and operation and maintenance. To meet this standard, a system is
rigorously tested. A certified solar water heater carries the SRCC
OG-300 label, and the system performance is listed in a published
directory. A similar program has been established for Florida by
FSEC. Both SRCC and FSEC provide collector testing and rating programs.
Find out if the manufacturer offers a warranty, and, if so, what
the warranty covers and for how long. If the dealer you are buying
the equipment from goes out of business, can you get support and
parts from the manufacturer, or from a local plumbing contractor?
Make sure that the installers are qualified to do the work. Ask
the installation contractor for references and check them. When
the job is finished, have the contractor walk you through the system
so you are familiar with the installation. Be sure that an owner's
manual with maintenance instructions is included as part of the
package. Label the system components and provide a laminated system
diagram near the controller for future owners.
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